Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Old Stomping Grounds

I had a big anniversary to celebrate this past weekend, and it unexpectedly took us back to old stomping grounds of mine...

Some Chicago highlights from our surreptitious trip, in some particular order:

1) Millenium Park

This is a prime example of the city center park as a viable modern social mecca. I wish the wimpy NIMBY's hampering the redevelopment of Civic Center Park here in Denver would step a few feet into this bold reimagining of an urban greenspace. From the dramatic spitting fountains to the breathtaking Frank Gehry-designed bandshell, the park was a beating living environment. Had we known there was a concert that evening we would have shown up with a blanket and picnic on the grassy green and lazed away with some wine. Boldly, Chicago has served notice that it is still a magnet for cutting edge urban design.

2) The John Hancock Tower

Surprisingly in all my time in Windy City, I never once stepped foot in this landmark building. The Sears Tower, many times. My loss. If you pick one skyscraper from which to ogle the urban skyline I think the Hancock wins hands down. Your choice: the tourist experience or a cocktail on top of the world. Guess which one I chose...

3) Architectural River Cruise

Another thing I had managed to avoid all these years. We had the perfect sunny morning to explore the Chicago River by boat. It is a great way to see the city evolve. Frankly it was really odd to see the old Sun Times building replaced by a Trump palace. That said, the potential for a new corkscrew mega-tower designed by Santiago Calatrava was a tantalizing end to a tour of a city undergoing another transformation.

4) Neighborhoods

I can never emphasize enough to people that the real Chicago draw is just a little bit afar from the glitz of Michigan Avenue, and this trip just emphasized that. From dinner at a cute little place in Andersonville, to the usual haunts in Lakeview, to the cute strip of restaurants and boutiques in Wicker Park and Bucktown the best Chicago has to offer is in the urban neighborhoods. If you do end up amidst the skyscrapers, definitely make the time to wander a bit afield for the more approachable Chicago.

5) The L

Transit cards and clearly recorded stop information make a huge difference. I was amazed how two subtle changes went a long way towards making the L a friendlier transit system. It really is a convenient way to explore the neighborhoods and simply get around. I am glad I got to still use tokens in my younger days, but frankly, the CTA has put technology to good use making the system better.

6) Chicago Style Pizza

We skipped the line at Uno's for a pie at Due's and were not disappointed. There is something magic about a pizza that has to cook for 40 minutes to melt just right. It's a gooey calorie bomb of a meal, but it is oh-so-good.

7) The Art Institute in 45 Minutes

The grande dame of Chicago museums has a deal that is worth checking out, especially right now when many of the galleries are closed due to the museum's current expansion project. Entrance is half-off the last hour each day, which the friendly museum ticket vendor casually suggested would be a good idea. Perfect idea. While I know you could spend hours on a Picasso or a Seurat, we managed to see all we wanted to see, perhaps a bit rushed, in 45 minutes flat. Best $6 spent in Chicago.

8) Ed Debevic's

No we didn't make it to the landmark downtown diner, but if ever I needed a reminder that the more things change, they often stay the same, Ed Debevic's provided it. Just as we stepped out into the city from our hotel this weekend, a gaggle of young lost college kids asked me if they were going in the right direction looking for Ed Debevic's. I was once one of those kids, asking for the same exact directions, almost a lifetime ago.

9) Nemo Nisi Mors

A simple phrase at the end of the trip. In one swoop Chicago reminded me how fortunate I have been, and still am today.

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